Ask Inger: The Barking Dog Syndrome. How Do I Get It To Stop?

I have a dog named Romeo about 2 years ago. He’s been great and I love him very much, however my roommate does not. Unfortunately, Romeo has a barking problem, whenever anyone gets close to our apartment door, or enters / exits our apartment Romeo barks uncontrollably and it is very loud and piercing. Admittedly I find it annoying as well, but I can deal with it, my roommate can not and it is causing a riff.

So I was thinking about getting Romeo a bark collar, but they are kind of expensive and I want to know what is what before I purchase anything. I’m thinking preferably to get one that emits a sound humans can’t hear but dogs can, does something like that exist? I really don’t want one that shocks him, unless you think it’s not a big deal and I can use one like that.

The other kind I see all over are the citronella ones, but they seem so bulky and he’s a tiny dog so I don’t see that working out.

Anyway, what are you thoughts? What should I do / buy to start correcting this problem?

                                                        Paul

 

Hi Paul, Thanks for your question! It’s a common one.  Remember behaviors take time to develop and they also take a little time to go away. There are various issues that contribute to barking and why dogs bark. Some barking is due to boredom, triggers, lack of training, separation anxiety, lack of exercise and so on… Owners can play a huge part too. Yelling “NO” constantly at your dog puts you both into the looney camp. Bark collars are not the answer. Look into your daily life and make a list of the times your dog barks. It will help isolate where you need to focus. Here are a few tips to get you started on the road to recovery.

 

Paws For A Minute® Lifestyle Dog Training

Tips To Help Barking At The Front Door

 

Everyone should note:  If your dog is barking his head off all day long, that is what’s called boredom barking and it’s up to you, as owners, to make sure all exercise needs are met!

 

So before you do any corrections get on your running shoes  and warm up your throwing arm. Ultimately, a tired dog is a good dog! Hello, get off the couch! Therefore, if you have exercised your dog daily and barking is still an annoying sound effect, the below may help. 

 

 

1. One option is to create a bone chewing time by using a baby gate. This can help in creating a new pattern. Gate one or two of the dogs in a kitchen or hallway for bone chewing time. For multiple dogs breaking up the pack can stop the trigger of one dog instigating the barking. Doing so will help train your dog over time out of the pattern of scouting for the person, noise or action to bark at. Music is key, to soothe the beast during this peaceful time. Remember, this is NOT meant to be a punishment place! AND implementing this 20 minute space a few times a day should be done when you are home. It helps break up the barking pattern.

 

2. Another option is to know when the barking happens is to put music on in advance. Sounds crazy, but this will really break up the pattern of being alert to outside noises. It also sets a tone and a completely different atmosphere to your house. Much less trigger oriented. Not meant to be a cure, but it will help.

 

3. A third option is to correct this barking with a shake of a penny can from out of sight! Your dog should not see you shake the can.

 

This next tip is not for every dog or owner. So really assess your circumstance carefully. Use your common sense! Not all dogs can handle a loud noise and others can and will respond no problem.

 

The trick  is to not let your dog see you shake the can. It’s just really about the sudden, quick sound. This correction is not meant to scare, just make as clear communication that no barking allowed. You should think of this correction more like a police siren pulling a car over for speeding. Know that not all dog temperaments are right for this type of correction. Note: Very timid dogs will respond well to a firm no, that should ban the barking and do the trick. If your dog has a really strong, confident personality the penny can “shake” can be tolerated and send the right signal to zip it.

 

Take a coffee can, empty it,  then put a handful of pennies in it and the lid back on. As your dogs begin to bark, shake the can once and say “No!” This loud abrupt noise will represent the same boundary as the siren of a police care pulling you over for running a red light. Then back up this quick correction by redirecting your dogs in a positive way!  Ask them to “come” to you in a really happy, nice voice. Finish the command by having your dog sit. Then praise, love and maybe even a treat!

 

If you haven’t guessed already I’m really training you to be a little smarter than your dog, have a little foresight to your circumstance then the bad dog behavior will go away. Dogs love to please, they just don’t know how unless you guide them.then put a handful of pennies in it and the lid back on. As your dogs begin to bark, shake the can once and say “No!” This loud abrupt noise will represent the same boundary as the siren of a police care pulling you over for running a red light. Then back up this “quick” correction by redirecting your dogs in a positive way!  Ask them to “come” to you in a really happy, nice voice. Finish the command by having your dog sit.

 

Add praise, love and maybe even a treat! If you haven’t guessed already I’m really training you to be a little smarter than your dog, have foresight to your circumstance and the bad dog behavior will go away. By the way, a tired dog is always a better dog. So exercise is always a great routine to help barking problems. Dogs love to please, they just don’t know how unless you guide them!

Ask Inger: My Dog Chooses When He Wants To Listen. Selective Hearing?

Ask Inger: My Dog Chooses When He Wants To Listen. Selective Hearing?

Hi, Inger! A few months ago my boyfriend and I adopted the most well behaved Lab ever, Max. He’s seriously such an amazing companion and already knew several basic commands as well as has awesome leash behavior. We’re spoiled! We live near a dog park and even a dog beach so we love to get him out and about.

The only issue Max has is that whenever he is off-lead, he could care less about his humans (us) and is only interested in running around like a crazy man and visiting with new dogs (social butterfly!). How do we get Max to be more watchful when he is off lead?

We’re trying to make him more responsive to us using treats but it seems like he comes for the treat, and then takes off again – only coming back when he’s hungry (not as often as you’d think). At this point, we’re not sure if he can ever be off-leash at the beach as there are no fences and we can’t stop him from running around.

Sam

Hi Sam,

Great question! Many dog owners suffer from having their only dog hear words like COOKIE extremely well, yet words like “let’s go” at the dog park become in audible. Go figure, a similar hearing dysfunction can happen with family members too. Here’s the scoop. Often, what is deemed to be a well-mannered dog by many owners and new dog parents of a rescue dog is actually a manifestation of age, not necessarily obedience.  Now hang on, don’t get your knickers in a knot, I am not suggesting your dog is not “super” smart, or fabulous. I’m saying that in many cases, like yours, you or your dog have not participated in formal obedience classes. Therefore, you are winging-it and so is your dog. This technique (of winging-it) or treat training initially works really well with a puppy. Owners usually get that quick response of their pup eagerly wanting to please. What the puppy is responsive to is the owner’s body language and high voice inflection praise and treat. But by teenage-hood, like with humans, forget about it, in one ear, out the other. Then what?

Teach your dog to come, sit and wait for a release command. The missing link is that you just be a little smarter than your dog teach him to want to finish the command. Sometimes people hear positive reinforcement and treat training and end up coaxing their dog more than really training them. Playing a game of hide-and-seek in your house should fix the temporary hearing impairment. But wait, you need to teach your dog to seek you out, sit and wait for a release.

I recommend teaching this systematically in a step-by-step process. The dog owner tip is that you need to teach it with a beginning, middle and end. The end is the release. Very important!  You need 2 people, for walls (in your house or apartment) one dog, a treat, and a little reverse psychology. One person holds the dog; the other grabs a treat and hides in another room. The person holding the dog does so nonchalantly by it’s collar. The person hiding should repeatedly call the dog’s name. Don’t peak. The person holding the dog back should let the dog go on the third call of its name. Holding the dog back creates an instinctive drive to hear its name and WANT to seek you out. Suddenly letting your dog go creates the race- horse effect. When your dog finds the person calling have the treat already in your hand and gesture the letter “j” with the hand holding the treat. Your dog’s eyes will follow you hand signal with the hand that is holding the treat, and say sit. Now hold your dog’s focus and ask your dog to watch you. Only for a second, then say the “okay!” and give him the treat. Practice this game at home for a while before trying it at a dog park. Once dogs get and understand hide-and-seek, they love nothing more than to come immediately, sit and wait for that release command.

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Ask Inger: How Do I Introduce My NEW Dog To My Cat?

Q:

Hi Inger!

My puppy, Hanni, is a 9-month-old Jack Russell mix, and we’ve had her about 6 weeks now. She has mainly been in in the kitchen since her arrival and we crate her at bedtime. We also have a 4 year old cat, India. India has basically been hibernating upstairs in the bedrooms and only comes downstairs to use the litter box and eat. We’re beginning to introduce Hanni to other parts of the house, and now India is hiding in closets, under beds, etc. My kids and I fear that she’ll remain in isolation forever! We feel badly for India because we don’t want her to feel unloved and replaced. Hanni hasn’t been aggressive with India, just excited and very curious. What do we do? Should we have puppy/kitty dates where we introduce them slowly?

Best regards,

Ellen C.

A:

Dear Ellen,

First of all, great job on beginning crate training! That said, I have a few suggestions for you to try:

1. Hanni’s crate needs to be moved around the house at different times of the day. Use a corral, or exercise pen, to give her an area where she can relax and chill out in different areas of the house and put the crate inside this area so that she can go in and out as she pleases. Make sure you put soft music on and give her water and a chew bone. This way she is being socialized to the different sights, sounds and smells of your daily life in different parts of your house without your cat being in danger.

2. Move Hanni’s crate up to your bedroom at night so that she becomes part of the bedtime ritual. Take her outside on a leash to potty and then back upstairs and into her crate for the night. Routine and structure is essential.

3. India should be allowed to be socialized to Hanni at her own pace. It may take time, but implementing corrals and baby gates in your home allow her to feel safe while your cat and dog can still see and smell each other. These gated areas keep curious and excited Hanni in check, while India has the choice to jump over and visit if she wants to! Don’t force the integration process by having puppy/kitty dates, as this could exacerbate India’s stress and fear.

Good Luck!

Inger